To arrive in the town of Lanquin to be mobbed by locals, all screaming the name of their respective hotels was not what we, nor the other 16 poor souls on our shuttle bus needed after enduring yet another horrid journey. The trip this time included a final 10km or so on what we will describe, with no uncertainty, was the WORST road we have ever been so lucky to travel down. Pot hole, after pot hole, after pot hole, for what felt like an age but was probably only an hour. We waded through the swarm of locals and round the corner to our hostel for the next few nights – El Muro. The view was the first thing noticable here (after the owners dog Chappo that is) and it really was something to admire. Lush, green hills, topped by mist and dotted with a very small number of colourful houses.

  

Once checked in, showered and refreshed it was fairly late so we headed up to the hostel bar (the rooms here are all below, built along the slope of the hillside with the bar above) to enquire about a trip to Semuc Champey, the most talked about backpacker, bucketlist hotspot in Guatemala. We were lucky enough to catch the start of a conversation between Max, the owner who is an absolutely fantastic host and the whole reason this hostel has such a great rep, and another young couple, later to be known as Marion and Elliot. After declaring it was time for a shot and lining up free shots of Barrilito, a tequila like liquor drank with lemon dipped in sugar, Max filled us in on what to expect. First of was the caving, heading into the local caves with only candles to light the way,transversing up waterfalls and jumping off edges into the darkness below had us hooked straight away. This was followed by tubing back down the river to a rope swing and a lunch of all you can eat buffet prepared by locals. Finished off with the pinnacle of Semuc Champey itself, crystal blue water, collected into natural pools that you can bathe in luxuriously while sitting in awe at the beauty of the national park. We booked instantly, of course, as any normal human would do at the sound of this amazing day. At this point we should point out that the weather was awful and it hadn’t stopped raining all day! We spent the rest of the night drinking, chatting and enjoying the company of the other travellers at the hostel, reviling the fact that we had finally met some after a few weeks of relative solidarity.

The morning came and after a damp insect infected sleep we were glad for it. We changed, packed our day bag and headed up for some breakfast while we waited for the bus. It arrived in true Guatemalan style, twenty minutes late, and we were greeted by what we thought was surely some sort of cruel joke the guides were playing on us. Now when you hear of travellers describing transportation as ‘chicken wagons’ in reality they are just old, run down buses that they cram people into, whereas this, this was a real chicken wagon. Complete with cage. We joined probably 20+ others and hopped into the back. Gripping on for all our lives were worth we headed off, back along the worlds worst, most pot hole filled road to our destination.

   

   

After 45 minutes, probably more, and many close calls of the van tipping over or losing control going down some of the major hills on the road, we made it to a bridge where we got out the back of the truck. Bruised, battered and all in some state of shock we trudged off down a dirt path towards our first stop, the caves. After clambering over/through waterfalls we made it to the reception area and got changed into swim wear and handed over our bags. Quickly we ascended up the side of the hill via a number of stairs and spotted the entrance to the caves. We were all handed a candlestick each and slowly and apprehensibly made our way into the darkness and the water. The temperature of the water was so low that it took our breath away as soon as it rose above our thighs. Wading further into the blackness, candles aloft above our heads we were intrigued as to what was to come. We reached a small opening we had to pass through one by one and as we did so the guides drew on our faces with mud from the walls, Hayley having cross on her cheeks and Jonny a pirate like patch over his eye. Directly after this the floor dropped away and it was no longer possible to walk so we had to swim, again still holding the candles above our heads not daring to let them go out and plunge ourselves into even more endless black. Soon we were again climbing and scrambling on the rocks, walls and obstacles in the way, Jonny having to hold Hayley’s candle on occasion so she could pass safely. After a few close calls and half an hour of ups, downs and throughs we were stopped by the guides, we had reached the waterfall. As mentioned, it had rained non stop all yesterday and had carried on throughout the night and into the morning. For this reason we could no longer climb up the waterfall as usual and carry on further but we could go underneath it and slide back to the group in a loop. This was achieved in fours, by climbing through a tiny hole and then under the pounding of the water from above, where it was impossible to even open your eyes and trust the guide that it was safe to lower yourself into the water below. First time it was scary but exhilarating so Jonny headed back with a few of the others for a second go. As this was the end of the road as such, we turned around and passed the other groups behind us waiting for their turn. The way back was very much filled with the same thing with one addition. We reached a ledge we had climbed up and were told we could jump off if we wanted. Not ones to pass up an opportunity we eagerly accepted. Hayley went first and sprung out into the black icy waters below and then Jonny followed suit. Candles re lit we made for the light streaming through the entrance and emerged back into the rain

 After collecting our bags it was at this point that we were informed that due to the rain, the river was overflowing and the rope swing and tubing was now a no go. Not only this but the water level had risen so much that the beautiful pools of Semuc Champey were now hidden and a murky brown colour beneath the river that usually passes below them. Disappointed and somewhat frustrated, as we all agreed they would of known this the previous day, we walked up past the afore mentioned rope swing and to a small view point of the bottom pools. They indeed were brown and look somewhat unappealing, it’s hard to imagine this view ever looking like the picture perfect images you see when searching this part of the world on google.

   
 
Lunch was next up and it was good. Big bits of fried chicken and rice, veg, fruit and other bits of Guatemalan food. The guides asked if we wanted to go up to the main view point of Semuc but as we had already witnessed the disheartening river ruining what we had all travelled here for we declined and opted to put our lives in the hands of the driver and got back on the ‘bus’.  

  
Once back at Lanquin, we all gathered in El Muro bar. The owners were surprised to see us back so early but kindly reimbursed us for the park entrance fees we had not used. It was only around 1pm at this time so we had the whole day to kill. We opted for a stroll around the town with Marion and Elliot to kill some time and see if we could find something to do. This quickly became apparent that it wasn’t going to happen. After standing in dog poo, being chased by said dogs and being stung by numerous nettles in an attempt to avoid the dogs snapping at his heels Jonny had had enough. We spotted the local church, looking like a fire had ripped through it recently and then within 5 minutes had walked around the whole place. 

   
Amused and plauged by the dog incident we went back to the bar and spent the rest of the evening chatting, drinking, playing cards and a giant jenga game. 

   
Another of our fellow travellers, Jacob, an Aussie travelling alone after a North America and Canada trip had a rubik cube which Jonny and Elliot became mesmerised by. Challenged to solve one side that night, time flew by as they attempted to solve the puzzle, which impressively Jacob could do in around 50 seconds. The rubik cube became an obsession and the next days stop offs on our journey to Antigua were filled with running around stores trying to find one of our own to satisfy Jonny’s desire. Unfortunately, no such luck. The bus to Antigua was long but helped by a few films, a Spanish showing of Apocolypto and Castaway. We pulled into the cobbled, colourful streets later that night, excited for what was to come in this beautiful colonial city. 

Lanquin and Semuc had been a major disappointment for us both but we were just unfortunate and have heard other stories from travellers that it really is amazing. So don’t let our story put you off and venture to this remote spot if you are ever so lucky to get the chance. 

  
  
Jonny and Hayley 🙂