Considering how easy our previous border crossing experiences had been, we expected Costa Rica’s would be a breeze. Arguably the most developed country in Central America, we presumed the process would be advanced and straight forward. Sadly, these predicaments were far from truth. In fact this was the most complex, frustrating border crossing on our journey to date. We waited in what we can only be described as ‘no mans land’, the Nicaragua side for around an hour. Locals bombarded us with fruit, souvenirs, and wads of cash to exchange. Dust scratched our faces and unpleasantly settled in our eyes. Luckily we were provided with some entertainment in the form of freestyle football. A young boy from our bus attracted a crowd with his incredibly skilful, acrobatic style moves. It was a pleasant distraction from the chaos we were unwillingly part of. Costa Rica’s border greeted us with a long queue, swarmed by curious wasps. It is required that all luggage be scanned, which we are not denying is a sophisticated idea although the system itself is diabolical. A free for all, pushing, shoving, heaving, lifting. A few coach loads of people and only one scanner-pretty easy maths which totals to mayhem.

We were travelling via Tica Bus, who are pricey although comfortable and organised. Their buses are prompt and you even have assigned seats. Their fault is that they charge you a fixed price from Granada to San Jose, therefore if you choose to stop pre San Jose, you waste some money. Naturally we were in this category of people, who opted to end our Tica Bus journey in Liberia. As we were heading directly to the Pacific side, it would waste time travelling all the way to Costa Rica’s capital then back up. We left our comfy reclining seats on the Tica Bus and boarded an overcrowded local bus with plastic seats. *sighs* There are many beautiful beaches to visit on the Pacific side of Costa Rica, although we are restricted to time pressures and therefore could only navigate ourselves to one. Playas Del CoCo was our chosen destination. We were intrigued by the ‘coco beach’ extracts read upon our research, plus it was not too far from Liberia so convenience played a role in our decision.

An hour on a single strip of highway with the sun glazing our faces and too many bodies clustered around us was not pleasant. We arrived tired, sweaty and in need of refuelling. ‘Ticoffia’ was the closest place in sight, we ventured in, greeted by the strong smell of coffee beans, a pic and mix array in front of us.

The owner welcomed us inside, speaking fluent english, something we have not encountered for a very long time. Jonny was unable to resist a coffee and we both ordered the local dish, ‘Cascados’. Rice and beans, with succulent chunks of steak, accompanied by glazed onions, side salad and plantain. It did not take long for this meal to be demolished, and colour drained slowly back into our faces as our energy levels began to rise again.

We hadn’t reserved a place to stay, as the prices online had sent alarm bells ringing, Costa Rica is significantly more expensive. ‘Don Carlos’ is a house turned hotel and was the cheapest option we found and within walking distance to the beach. We dumped our bags and headed for the Ocean that was calling us. Our toes squealed with excitement as we ran along the dark coco sand and allowed the waves to lapse over our feet. We surrendered ourselves to the sea’s refreshing embrace. The water enticed us with its clarity and warmth whilst the descending sun tickled our faces.

That evening we wandered the busy streets of this small town, to find it was largely americanised and very touristy. Fast food restaurants seemed more frequent than the local authentic cuisine we are preferable to. As enthusiastic travellers we relish in local culture that is alternative to our own, this town seemed very touristic in a sense that wasn’t in all honesty appealing. We opted for a less than average pizza at a takeaway branch and after a few cocktails headed home.

We awoke suffocated by heat trapped in our room and desperate for air. Promptly we were showered and ready for the beach. Although the town wasn’t to our taste, the beach at CoCo is undeniably beautiful. We decided to go for a stroll away from the main strip that both locals and tourists had towel marked territories. The sun seeped through our pores and the ocean tickled our feet as we clambered across rocks, dodging crabs and sharp shells. Twenty minutes later we were dodging the football of some young local boys on a lonesome strip of sand, with just a handful of native Costa Ricans-mostly children. ‘PURA VIDA’ was engraved into the sand, the famous motto of this laid back country.

Translated it means ‘pure life’, which couldn’t have been a more fitting way to describe this moment. Purity in the water’s transparency, the children’s innocence, the natural vegetation and nature surrounding us in this small, private cove. Not forgetting life, there was a lot of living in this moment, it felt like we had walked out of the westernised town and into the culture of CoCo that we were hoping to find. Our walk continued as we had been advised that when the tide is out, you can walk to a tiny island which sounded a very appealing end destination.

However it seems we weren’t quite quick enough. The tide had beat us and although we were able to wade much farther out than expected we couldn’t quite reach the island. Nevertheless we papped away the gorgeous beach, sea, sun and picturesque scenes, which were a very satisfying end to our stroll. The ocean was no longer tickling our feet but hugging our ankles, mother nature reminded us it was time to leave before she unwillingly submerged us. With a quicker pace we headed back, as the tide was surprisingly fast approaching.

A local football match was taking place just opposite our hotel and it was too late, Jonny was drawn towards the side line, he was about to be rehydrated from his ongoing thirst for a live game. Both teams were impressively good, Jonny talked in technical football terms about the game whilst Hayley observed whose trainers she liked best whilst munching on a bribery bar of chocolate. At half time we-yes Jonny too-agreed that the sand really aught to be scrubbed off and the salt washed out. Our hopes were not high upon our search for food this night, however we were pleasantly surprised to notice a Lebanese cuisine option. A small take away place, with a few tables to seat if you wish. We both ordered wraps which were really tasty and fairly priced. A much better result than the previous night.

Sadly this was to be the only beach we visit on the pacific side, just due to our strict timing schedule. Travellers-in all honesty-we wouldn’t recommend this as being the top of your list. The beach is great but the town itself is disappointing. We chose it more out of convenience and we’ve heard much more positive reviews from other backpackers who ventured further south along the pacific. So that would be our tip too! Also remember Costa Rica’s beaches aren’t white and sandy like the caribbean but they are surrounded by beautiful vegetation and habited by friendly locals!

PURA VIDA!!

Jonny & Hayley 🙂