Puerto Viejo

Our last stop in Costa Rica was in the small Caribbean town of Puerto Viejo. Located near the border of Panama this is a popular spot for tourists looking to make the crossing into the neighbouring country. It’s a good solid drive from San Jose, made all the better by being told as we purchased a ticket that only standing was now available. A popular bus it seemed. After squashing ourselves into the small disabled space left free on the bus and alternating between this and holding on or dear life while standing we were glad to arrive!

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While in search for a hostel for the next few nights we bumped into Tyler – who you may recall us spending some time with in Leon – and his girlfriend Sam, who had flown down to meet him for the final leg of his trip. After keeping in touch we were aware that we may cross paths but it seemed like fate when a minivan pulled up outside the hostel we were checking out and his face appeared in the window. Greetings down and a quick catch up we agreed to meet up later when we had found somewhere to stay. Tyler and Sam were staying in the popular Rocking J’s (Tyler in a hammock and Sam in a tent) but we opted for a room in Lazy Loft Hostel, situated right on the waters edge, with a downstairs bar and hammocks for relaxing over looking the beach.

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After we had checked in we headed out in search of food. Settling for a place called ‘Flip Flop’ we devoured a well deserved meal, feeling energy drain back into us with every mouthful.

Revitalised and refreshed we met up with Tyler, Sam and Lucas, Tyler’s old travelling companion as well as some other familiar faces from our Central American adventure and headed out for a few drinks. Chatting with these people it felt like we had known them for a lot longer than the two weeks or so it actually had been. We visited a few bars around the town before finishing up next door to our hostel for a cocktail and brownie before heading up to bed. We decided we would all rent bikes the next day and head down to the much talked about Jaguar sanctuary situated a few kilometres down the road.

Morning came and opening our door to the sound and sight of waves calmly crashing onto the beach below us was a great way to start the day. Fed and watered we set out to acquire some bikes for the day. There are rental agencies all over Puerto Viejo but prices can vary. Eventually we settled for one of the smaller establishments and set off to our destination.

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Guided tours, ran by some of the volunteers working at the sanctuary, are the only way you can visit and times are limited to twice a day. The first being 9.00 am and the next being 11.00am. Unfortunately, we missed the first chance by a matter of minutes so rode to a local beach to soak up some sun beforehand.

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Upon our return we bumped into Tyler and co who caught the first tour and they filled us with anticipation even more so.

Our guide, a young girl from Canada named Jess, made our time in the sanctuary an even better experience than anticipated due to her enthusiasm and by showcasing how much she obvious cares for the animals and enjoys helping as much as she can. Although this place is called the ‘Jaguar Sanctuary’ we were swiftly informed that there isn’t actually any Jaguars present at our time of visiting. Don’t be disheartened though if this is your reason for visiting. The sanctuary strictly only cares for sick, injured or endangered animals so having no Jaguars is actually a good thing. You may be wondering why it is then called the Jaguar Sanctuary – this is because the first animal taken care of here was a Jaguar. The organisation is non-profit and receives no funding from the government (even though they often send animals there to be treated and looked after) and runs solely on donations and money raised through tourists visits. The volunteers are all that, volunteers, and receive no money or lodging etc for their services, they give up their time free of charge and it is for this reason tipping on these tours is encouraged. Originally opened by two biologists living in the area it was actually by mistake that this project took off, simply because locals kept bringing these two biologists stricken animals to care for. The founders still live and work here, sleeping above the main reception, with any number of animals inside the house at one time.

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Inside the sanctuary animals range from birds with broken wings to wild cats and everything in between. Some snakes are present, more so for education than anything else. The main attraction (if you can call it that) is the number of sloths homed here. There are babies who have been found alone in the wild or in roads who are being raised here as well as sloths who are rehabilitating after injury. We learned that sloths only ever come down from the trees for two reasons – 1) to swap trees and 2) to poo (hilarious but true). This is quite an unknown fact so some sloths from the centre are there by mistake as people see them on the ground and mistakenly think they are hurt or lost and bring them to the centre, thus removing them from their family and habitat. Hayley revelled in watching them and learning these facts as she is a big fan of these strange creatures.

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As well as sloths, monkeys are ever present at the centre and can be seen playing together as well as with volunteers who enter the enclosures. A very jealous Hayley declared that she wanted to now volunteer and have her turn playing with the monkeys. Some residents are unfortunately permanent at the centre due to irreversible injuries or for the fact they would no longer survive in the wild. The most famous one of these is a pelican named Pistachio who wanders around like he owns the place.

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Also featured here are owls, an alligator, tucans and much more! We definitely recommend a visit as it is not only a good experience and lots of fun but every penny goes towards a good cause.

After our separate visits we regrouped and spent the rest of the day on the beach. Jonny and Tyler headed straight into the sea, much to Hayley and Sam’s horror. The sea was rough, huge waves crashed higher than us and a strong current is present here. Nonetheless, they waded out and proceeded to dive through the waves and try to catch lifts back to shore on them. Being thrown around and dragged under the water was great fun and grins were shared every time the surface was breached, as well as shouts as larger waves approached. After the girls waving and shouting to come back the boys finally gave in and headed back to shore for a couple of unimpressed looks and some wise words.

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That night was our new friends last before a night in the airport for flights home so we all headed out for a nice meal together. Back at our favourite Flip Flop, which we had visited separately before we enjoyed a drink and some great food. They had treated themselves to a room in our hostel that night rather than a tent and hammock so we carried on the drinking back on our balcony, again overlooking the now black waves of the Caribbean. After a number of hours and numerous drinks the girls headed to bed and Jonny and Tyler carried on the drinking at a small beach party where they found Lucas already in the midst of it. Many drinks later, one two many, they returned home in the early hours. A great send off until our next meeting which it had become apparent may be in South America.

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The next morning, slightly worse for wear we bid farewell and set off on our short hop to the Panamanian island of Bocas Del Toro. Find out about how we fared here next time..

Jonny & Hayley 🙂

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