Leaving Medellin on December 27th with the plan to spend New Years Eve in Bogota we were faced with the decision of where to stop in between Colombia’s two major cities. Having previously had to decide between two places to spend a few days before our time in Medellin we were anxious to make the right decision this time. We settled on the small town of Salento, some 30 minutes or so outside the smaller city of Armenia, conveniently situated en route to the Colombian capital. Consulting many websites and our trusty Lonely Planet guide helped us and we were not disappointed.

Catching a bus around midday to Armenia meant we were cutting it fine as to whether we would make the last bus to Salento and after many stops, seemingly at locals houses or wherever they request to be let off, we had arrived 10 minutes too late. Catching a local taxi we were thrilled to be paired with an older man who spoke relatively good English after living in London for 12 years. He informed us we would need to visit his office prior to setting off to our destination and hilarity followed from there. We pulled up at the side of a dark road and our driver proceeded to climb out of the car and shout up to a window in a Romeo and Juliet type scene. Mildly amused already our laughter could be heard echoing down the empty street when a woman appeared and lowered down a clipboard attached to a piece of rope, again resembling another fictional character in Rapunzel. Never one to miss an opportunity Hayley quickly retrieved her camera and began filming the episode. Our new friend realised this and came over to comment – he tutted, rolled his eyes and made the remark ‘Colombians’. It seems those years living in the UK had taught him how alien things like this are to westerners. Paperwork filled out, we were then driven to a gas station (not petrol, as it is extremely expensive in Colombia we were informed, although to us not so much as people at home will appreciate) and treated to some free coffee, courtesy of the station. Companies in the UK take note. Finally, an hour after getting in the taxi we set off to our destination. The time from Armenia should be 30 minutes or so but we had managed to choose the worlds slowest taxi, complete with a driver who stopped every time a car came in the opposite direction, it took us closer to an hour. Entertained throughout by our host we quite enjoyed ourselves, especially speaking some English, and we managed to forget about how long we had travelled for.

When entering Salento one must pass by the fire station and it was here that our driver decided to stop and ask for directions to our hotel, even with me providing the address and a map. He spoke quickly in Spanish and laughed as he pulled away. He soon made us aware that this was because the fireman had just told him that one of his passengers was extremely beautiful – we’ll let you decide who he was talking about. After some confusion with our original hotel and moving next door we headed out for some food. By this time it was around 10pm and we were thrilled to find places still open and willing to serve. We devoured a meal and called it a night, falling into a much needed sleep.

Usually our night would end here and for Hayley it did. However, the next door neighbours dog was shut out onto the front porch and proceeded to bark, howl and screech all night long. Jonny’s broken, interrupted sleep was not enjoyable and at one point Hayley woke to find him shouting abuse and hurling small objects in his tormentors direction in a desperate bid to claim some peace and quiet.

Morning finally came and after a small lay in we rose to attack the day. Buoyed by the fact we would have a full, bus less day ahead we were excited to see what Salento had in store. After moving hostels, partially for cost purposes but mostly to avoid that ‘f**king dog’ (sorry Mums) we decided on a coffee tour. Some of you may think this odd but Salento is situated right in the middle of Colombia’s coffee region so really it makes perfect sense. Kindly provided with a map and suggestion for best tour by our new hostel we made our way out of the town and into the hills. Salento is surrounded by valleys and steep hills and the walking here is second to none on our trip so far. Strolling along a dirt track and small paths through coffee fields and farms made for an excellent adventure in itself.

We had decided to go with Don Jose Fodor tour and again were not disappointed. We were greeted by a young guy who informed us he worked on the farm leading tours but also caring for and picking the coffee. He lead us around the farm, describing the plants, the process and the importance and monitory value of coffee to this area of Colombia as well as giving us some tips on how to make the best coffee. Interestingly enough was the array of different plant species they keep on the farm to ensure the best coffee is grown here and to assist in the process, these include Banana plants, pineapples and many more. Tour of the field over it was now time to try to coffee. We were given details on how the coffee, once picked, is separated, dried and processed to the state in which we all know it.

We ground our own small number of homegrown, homedried beans and proceeded to sample the finished product. Well, Jonny did. Hayley doesn’t like coffee so sat this one out but Jonny informed her it was some of the best coffees he had tried. Colombia is actually third on the list of best coffee in the world. We can see why.

Decided against the long walk back we caught a lift and then headed up to the town mirador (lookout in Spanish) for the sunset. Climbing around 100 steps we were greeted by a view over the top of the town – it looked remarkably small from this height. The sun set was once again amazing but being snobs in this area now we had seen better.

Salento boats a large number of souvenir and jewellery shops so Hayley took this opportunity to browse before dinner. An early night in order as the main reason we had come to this town was on the horizon for early the next morning.

Its often the opinion of people back home and people who have not travelled that rising before 6.00am and the sun is reserved for the poor souls who have to do this for work. We beg to differ. Many things worth seeing, or indeed doing, require an early morning start and today was one of those. Checking out of the hostel at 6.15am and leaving our bags to collect later we headed to Salento’s main square and joined the few other people waiting for a jeep. The jeeps took us to the nearby area known as ‘Valle Cocora’ and we headed off on our hike.

First up was an hours walk through the valley, dipping in and out of the shade of the canopy and transversing over the river and streams running through the middle. Many of these crossing took place over very questionable looking bridges which were only safe for one person at a time – luckily we haven’t piled on that much weight and made it across in one piece.

After many pictures, poses and videos we made it to the hummingbird sanctuary and our first stop. Here you’re provided with a warm drink (even though the temperature is in the mid 30s) and can relax while watching these amazing animals. Hummingbirds buzz all around you here, whizz past your head quicker than you can imagine and only noticeable by their distinctive hum after which they are named. They are fascinating creatures and move in what seems constant fast forward. Even Jonny who is usually afraid of birds enjoyed his time here and sat in amazement at the sheer number and antics of these little birds. We made to depart in high spirits only for Jonny’s new love of birds to come crashing back down to earth. The path leading in and out of the sanctuary is only wide enough for single file and as we made our way towards the gate a huge, and we mean HUGE cockerel reared its ugly head at us. Hayley insisted on carrying on (used to similar birds as her dad keeps chickens at home) as Jonny cowered behind her. After two more steps the cockerel started to approach us. Clearly unfazed and unafraid it then proceeded to charge us. Now even Hayley was scared. We retreated as fast as we could as the cockerel carried on coming for us, much to the amusement of the workers, and backed us up right behind one of them. Satisfied with its work this unnaturally territorial bird thankfully let us live and made for a hut. Needless to say we sprinted away at the first clear opportunity and thankfully escaped with our lives. Obviously this may sound a bit dramatic but you didn’t see the look in its eyes.

Second on our hike was a view over the valley from a ranger station located another hour further on. Unfortunately, only armed with very basic directions, a hand drawn map and no sign posts we took a wrong turn and walked uphill in the wrong direction for over an hour.

We reached the heights of 3000 metres above sea level before finally being told by other hikers returning from an over night adventure that we were going the wrong way. Somewhat embarrassed and more frustrated than anything else we turned round and plodded slowly back the way we had came. If any of you do visit, cross back over the river before heading back uphill, that’s all the instructions needed to say and we would have been saved. Nonetheless, we finally arrived at our destination. Greeted by familiar faces from the hummingbird sanctuary who looked confused at how it has taken so long, we explained and received some much needed sympathy.

We sat down and prepared some sandwiches with the supplies we had purchased the night before and ate them with an impressive view over the valley we had just conquered.

This was the half way point and we set off again – this time downhill – back towards our lift home. The second half of the hike out shone the first by some way. After 10 minutes we were stopped in our tracks by a view of the likes we had never witnessed before and why this area is famous. Palm trees (wax palms to be precise) tower above everything else in sight. They rise taller than buildings and spread all the way down between the hills. It makes for some amazing pictures and we found ourselves, along with other hikers, stopping every few minutes to snap more shots of these remarkable bits of nature. Soon enough we were walking directly between and beneath these trees and the full scale of their being was made clear.

It was one of those moments in life when you feel extremely small in this world. Numerous times we stopped and stared, jaws wide open lost for words.

We had another night bus to catch so unwillingly had to leave. Upon return to town we desperately wanted a shower after a solid 5 hours of walking in the high heat. Typically the water in town was turned off until 6pm so we had to head out for lunch, smelling particularly foul but we had no choice. We revisited yesterday’s lunch spot, Brunch, who served great western food, and satisfied our taste buds with a pair of burgers. They also provide packed lunches (mostly aimed at hikers) but we decided on these for our night bus. Sandwiches, fruit, crisps and a brownie, what more could you ask for.

Waiting by the shower with the tap on begging water to come out was a new low for the trip but finally we managed to shower and headed off to catch a bus back to Armenia for our connection to Bogota. However, upon arrival we were greeted with a huge queue of locals and travellers alike with the same idea. Another taxi ride and a few hours killed in the terminal and we boarded our transport ready and eager to explore the capital of Bogota.

Salento is the perfect stop off between Colombia’s two most popular cities and highly recommended by us on any itinerary. We’d love to spend some more time there and even considered it at times but our big trip didn’t allow for it. Find out how Bogota and New Year panned our for us next..

Jonny & Hayley 🙂