Peru’s capital city – Lima – was initially our first planned stop in this large south American country but due to the length of time we would need to spend on a bus we opted for a break in the northern beach town of Mancora. However, if we had known that the Peruvian buses were as luxurious as the ones we had experienced so far we would of opted to do the journey in one stint. Large 160 degree reclining seats, much like first class on planes (we would imagine) had carried us for the last 20 hours, dinner and breakfast provided, before pulling into Lima’s bustling central district. Hopping in the first taxi available we were whisked away to our hostel in the area of Miraflores.

We were unsure of what to expect from this city, especially after travelling through what seemed like endless desert landscapes that make up much of Peru’s eastern coast. Instantly we were pleasantly surprised. We took a much needed shower and set off on foot to explore. Lots of people advised us to use the local ‘combi’ taxis around the Miraflores area (these are basically collective taxi/minivans) but it’s small enough to walk around and a nice walk at that. We made a b line for the coast and were greeted with an unexpected but welcomed site. Grass covered cliffs cascade down towards a pebble stoned beach below, complete with crashing waves, topped off by dozens of paraglider’s soaring overhead. Completely unaware that Lima was hiding a place like this we decided that we liked it already. We strolled along the pathway straddling the cliff and passed joggers, cyclists and families all enjoying the view and the pleasant temperatures. The area is complete with play areas for children and even one for dogs (no joke), as well as statues and the ever present food and drink stands. The buildings surrounding the area were made up of high rise flats and offices and only made for a more impressive site. We debated and found it hard to come up with any other cities which boasted such a picturesque area

We headed for a popular site in Lima known as Parque Kennedy. Here you can find bars, shops, cafes and restaurants all spread around a triangular shaped park, lined with artists work and street stalls. By chance we stumbled across somewhere known as Pizza Street and with our stomachs begging to filled we chose to eat. We didn’t however choose to eat pizza. We opted to try out some authentic Peruvian food and order a ‘Lomo Saltado’ which consists of stir fried beef and vegetables with rice (it seems to be Peru’s most popular dish) and a steak smothered in Cilantro sauce with yucca. Yucca looks very similar to sweet potato when we have seen it in the supermarkets but its actually a bit more of a mix between potato and carrot- quite a hit.

We had arrived in Lima quite late so after satisfying Jonny’s craving for a beer..

and Hayley’s for chocolate – this was in the Cocoa Museo which is a shop with all your chocolate desire under one roof (in her own words) – we headed back to our room and slept.

Morning came and after Jonny had sneaked in a football game from bed as Hayley slept we headed out to see if we could paraglide. We arrived at a small hut and quickly passed through to the landing and launch pad. Hayley strapped up first and was ready to hurl herself off a cliff. A quick run up towards the edge and before you know it the ground disappears from below you, giving way to the view down to the sea and you’re carried away into the sky. Rising high above the tallest buildings of the city is an amazing experience and from that height you can see for miles. Lima is not a small city by any means but you can see it all from up there. The view is made even more special by the contrast of city and empty sea. It was an unforgettable experience.

Our trips last around 15 minutes each and once Hayley had returned safely to ground, a quick switch was made and it was Jonny’s turn to run off the cliff edge. All filmed via the company’s GoPro we were given video footage on which you can see that Hayley (an avid fan of talking and a hater of silence) talked throughout the whole trip. That probably explains the look of joy – or the opposite, stone cold no emotion – that our guide wore for the whole of Jonny’s flight, in which he chose to stay quiet, enjoy the tranquility and taking in the views.

Circling above the city and seeing it from a completely different angle was amazing but once we had both landed safely it was time to explore. Unfortunately, our own GoPro had fallen victim to water damage (as you may recall from a previous post) due to a faulty case so we spent a few hours in search of a new one as we decided this would be our best shot. We were not wrong and were soon sporting big grins as well as a new GoPro Hero 4 Silver. After wandering the local markets and a few shops in Miraflores we decided it was time to see more. Again advised to take combis around the city, we opted against this and caught the local bus (for 1.20 soles, the equivalent of 25p) and made our way to Central or Old Town Lima. The bus system was simple and effective and we would advise future visitors to use this as we had no problems with catching a bus or safety on said buses.

We arrived in Central Lima to the sound of horns, screeching breaks and people shouting, a lot different to the quiet and peaceful area we had come from. We firstly made for Plaza San Martin, surrounded on all sides by roads and more horns etc this square is spoilt by the noise and chaos that this creates. We didn’t hang around long and made our way towards Plaza de Armas or Plaza Mejor – the main square of Lima. Walking down a busy pedestrian street to reach here we passed numerous fast food joints and cheap clothes stores, as well as a man selling small, no older than a month old puppies, out of a crate on the floor. We were greeted at the Plaza by huge crowds and lots of music.

We happened to be in Lima during the ‘Festival of Lima’ in which the founding of the city is celebrated. On one side of the square was Lima’s cathedral and on the other a large stage where a group was performing to a relatively large crowd of people. We stayed and watched, taking in the sights and feeling lucky to be here on a day that only happens once a year. To complete the scene there were various dance troops or groups, practising their moves and routines for what we assume was a performance later that evening. These are not your usual UK dance groups but older men, adorned in traditional clothing, colourful and flared, shaking their stuff. Impressed but also overwhelmed when we expected small cafes and a quiet ambience we made our way back to Miraflores.

This time we did opt for pizza on the what we now realise is the famous ‘Pizza street’ and had a rather unforgettable experience. We know that being from the UK and a western society means we are spoilt with waiters and customer service in most instances and we accept that this part of the world is different but this one waiter stood out to us. In the most lavish looking and probably most expensive restaurant on the street (don’t get us wrong, we aren’t talking posh here, just upmarket for backpackers and what we considered a treat meal).  To cut a long, boring story short, our order was wrong numerous times and we ended up eating separately. We were then reminded ‘tip is not included’ in the prices and were shadowed as we paid and angrily questioned about the ‘tip’. This only emphasised to us the the more local, the better.

With Hayley’s favourite shop in Lima (as she even wrote this in their comment book) being situated a few doors down we again made for chocolate heaven. We watched them melt and shape white chocolate as well as trying lots of samples left out at the side before purchasing a slice of chocolate cake, having it covered in melted white chocolate, and gorged ourselves in its deliciousness. It was the 5th time we had frequented the shop in less than 48 hours and we were basically on first name terms with the people who worked there.

Our next journey planned out and researched back in our hostel we were sad that our time in Lima had come to an end and would of loved some more time here. We were surprised with how much we had enjoyed our time here and would recommend it to anyone visiting Peru. The area of Miraflores would be a welcome addition to any city and whatever else you decide to do – Paraglide. And visit the chocolate shop of course.

Next stop – Huacachina and its desert oasis..

Jonny and Hayley 🙂